Arrival at Whichaway Camp on the Shirmacher Oasis in Queen Maud Land. The three centralized pods held the kitchen, lounge, and dining room.

Over the years I’ve developed rituals to help me tolerate fear and sleep easier when away from home. Some are fairly straightforward, commonsense practices. Others, depending on how remote and/or creepy the destination, are a tad more “proactive” — some may say paranoid.

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