The frozen beach in Grotfjord. Norway.

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Twilight on the mountainous Kvaløya Island. In December, when the sun never rises, there’s about an hour of twilight early in the day, but the moon never left the sky. Norway.

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At the Kirkenes Airport in Høybuktmoen, the northernmost stretch of Norway, 250 miles north of the Arctic Circle. It’s the middle of the day, but in December the sun never rises that far north. Norway.

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My view from a dog sled. When running, the dogs are focused and silent, but the second they are forced standstill, it’s madness – they howl, bark and moan ceaselessly, completely anxious and agitated – all they want to do is run again. Also, that’s the moon in sky. In December in Tromsø, the sun never rises, and the sky is only light for about an hour. Norway.

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December in Tromsø. The sun never rises, but the sky lightens for about an hour, then the moon rises again, and the sky goes dark. Norway.

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Dog sledding in Tromsø in December, when the sun never rises, but the sky lightens for about an hour. Dogs are silent when running, but as soon as they stop…it’s absolute madness. Norway.

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Driving on the Sandnessundet strait, which connects the islands of of Tromsøya and Kvaløya. The sun never rises in December. The sky lightens in the late morning, but only for about an hour, and it’s just this eerie, beautiful twilight. Norway.

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On Kvaløya Island in the municipality of Tromsø. The sun never rises in December. The sky lightens in the late morning, but only for about an hour, and it’s just this eerie, beautiful twilight.

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On the Hurtigruten’s deck, passing through the Magerøysundet Strait, north of the Arctic Circle, during the day’s brief hour of weak light. It was nearly impossible to take this photo due to violent wind and cold. Norway.

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Me, wearing about 800 layers of clothing, on Sommarøy Island. In December the sun never rises. The sky lightens in the late morning, but only for about an hour, and it’s just this eerie, beautiful twilight.

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Honningsvåg, Norway’s northernmost city. Norwegian law states a city must have at least 5000 inhabitants, but Honningsvag was grandfathered in with 2257. It was butt-cold and pitch black in December. I was surprised to learn that many people lived there. I threw back a few drinks with several of them in the city’s only bar.

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On the Hurtigruten’s deck, passing through the Magerøysundet Strait, north of the Arctic Circle, during the day’s brief hour of weak light. It was nearly impossible to take this photo due to violent wind and cold. Norway.

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Downtown Oslo. Even the buildings cover up in the winter. Norway.

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Frozen, dark afternoon walk in Norway’s northernmost city, Honningsvåg. Norway.

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Frozen, dark afternoon walk in Oslo, Norway.

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