The frozen beach in Grotfjord. Norway.

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Twilight on the mountainous Kvaløya Island. In December, when the sun never rises, there’s about an hour of twilight early in the day, but the moon never left the sky. Norway.

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At the Kirkenes Airport in Høybuktmoen, the northernmost stretch of Norway, 250 miles north of the Arctic Circle. It’s the middle of the day, but in December the sun never rises that far north. Norway.

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Dog sledding in Tromsø in December, when the sun never rises, but the sky lightens for about an hour. Dogs are silent when running, but as soon as they stop…it’s absolute madness. Norway.

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On the Hurtigruten’s deck, passing through the Magerøysundet Strait, north of the Arctic Circle, during the day’s brief hour of weak light. It was nearly impossible to take this photo due to violent wind and cold. Norway.

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Downtown Oslo. Even the buildings cover up in the winter. Norway.

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The sun never rises on Kvaløya Island in December. The sky lightens in the late morning, but only for about an hour, and it’s just this eerie, beautiful twilight. I stayed in this cabin my first few nights in Norway. On my first night f two giant (humpback?) whales appeared and were swimming literally right in front of the cabin. It was one of the most magical moments of my life. Norway.

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Honningsvåg, Norway’s northernmost city. Norwegian law states a city must have at least 5000 inhabitants, but Honningsvag was grandfathered in with 2257. It’s pitch black 24 hours a day in December. Norway.

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